11 Jun PRAIA DO SARGI – 10 JUNE 2020 – SURF’N’ROLL

Yesterday we went to stock up because the prison in the living room program starts tomorrow. Today we went to the beach and for the first time, I tried to surf. 

Among many falls I managed to stand up on the board and ride my first wave. 

The children were the supporters and at the first success, the cheers covered the roar of the waves. 

I smiled as a champion and l offered them a spectacular tomb as a reward. 

Although we have almost entered the winter, the water is very warm and you can linger as long as your heart desires. 

Lavinia, after a few pictures, ran home to leave her camera and equip herself with the super-surf-woman suit. 

This suit is actually a neoprene jacket, which protects you when the force of the wave drags you to the bottom of the ocean. 

She came back in a jiffy and dived into the water like the dolphin from the Free Willy movie.

Surfing reminds me of my childhood when I was learning to ride a bike. I can’t forget the first attempts in my grandparents’ yard and the rose bushes where I ended up several times.

From this point of view, surfing is a sport for ladies, you fall into the water, not on the asphalt.

It’s cool to learn to surf, it’s like living your childhood again. 

You go through emotions, effort, despair and joy and the child within you laughs. 

The child within us has not died, he is just ignored and drowsy. 

But the surf woke him up!

Tomorrow when I’m not allowed to leave the house because the governor won’t let me, I’ll do what I did when I was a kid.

The fine replaced my father’s beating, but do you know something?

F**k it, I’m out! 

Other than that, nothing, all’s good…

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SURF’N’ROLL

Ieri am fost sa ne aprovizionam pentru ca de maine incepe programul de puscarie in sufragerie. Astazi am fost la plaja si pentru prima oara am incercat sa surfez. 

Printre multe cazaturi am reusit sa ma si ridic in doua. 

Copiii mi-au tinut galerie si la prima reusita uralele au acoperit huruitul valurilor. 

Am zambit ca un campion si m-am lasat pe spate oferindu-le drept recompensa o tumba spectaculoasa. 

Desi aproape am intrat in iarna, apa este foarte calda si poti zabovi cat iti doreste inimioara. Lavinia dupa cateva poze, a dat o fuga pana acasa sa-si lase aparatul de fotografiat si sa se echipeze cu costumul de supersurf woman. 

Acest costum este de fapt o geaca mulata de neopren, care te protejeaza cand forta valului te taraie de fundul oceanului. 

A venit cat ai zice peste si a plonjat in apa mai ceva ca delfinul Willy.

Surful imi aminteste de copilarie de momentele in care invatam sa merg cu bicicleta. 

N-am cum sa uit primele tentative din curtea bunicilor si tufele de trandafiri in care ma opream. 

Din acest punct de vedere surf-ul este pistol cu apa, cazi in apa nu pe asfalt. 

Este misto ca adult sa inveti sa surfezi, e ca si cum ai mai copilari inca o data. 

Treci prin emotii, efort, deznadejde si bucurie si copilul din tine rade. 

Copilul din noi n-a murit, este doar nebagat in seama si atipit. 

Dar surful l-a trezit! 

Maine cand n-am voie sa ies din casa pentru ca guvernatorul nu ma lasa, o sa fac ce-am facut cand eram mic. 

Amenda a inlocuit bataia lui tata dar stiti ceva?

Imi bag p**a, eu am iesit!

In rest, nimic, toate bune…